Translation. Region: Russian Federal
Source: Moscow Government – Moscow Government –
An important disclaimer is at the bottom of this article.
Busy highway traffic, residential areas, and office buildings—the modern Izmailovo district evokes the comfortable and businesslike everyday life of a city. But if you walk a short distance from Partizanskaya metro station and turn toward Izmailovsky Island, you'll find yourself in a different reality. Ekaterina Ivanova, a tour guide and employee of the Moscow State United Museum, spoke about the history and present of the Izmailovo estate. museum-reserveShe's been working there for 17 years and confirms that it boasts some of the best sunsets in Moscow (and they're unique).
The Golden Age of Izmailov and the "Virgin Soil Upturned" of Alexei Mikhailovich
To understand this place, it's worth abandoning the search for a single historical narrative. Izmailovo's fate is multifaceted and has taken many sharp turns. The origin of the toponym is unknown: one theory is that the area got its name from the surname of a certain Izmailov governor, but this is unconfirmed speculation.
"The first period of Izmailovo's history was the second half of the 17th century and the very beginning of the 18th century, a time of prosperity when it was a full-fledged royal country residence, a golden age," Ekaterina Ivanova begins her story.
The land belonged to the Romanov family, and the golden age began when Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich the Quietest launched a grand economic experiment here. The monarch wanted to create a model farm—with gardens, apiaries, fields, and even a menagerie for hunting. Watermelons, melons, and grapes were grown here, hence the pond's name—Serebryan-Vinogradny (from the Serebryanka River and the exotic plantings). "For eight years, the tsar used the Izmailovo peasants to cultivate virgin soil, in modern parlance," explains the tour guide.
Riot and the Island
But soon Alexei Mikhailovich ordered the village relocated and the island vacated. This was due to the Copper Riot—in 1662, the people revolted over the boyars' failed policies and the devaluation of copper coins. The tsar was caught off guard at his residence in Kolomenskoye, and although neither he nor his family were harmed, Alexei Mikhailovich began to worry about safety. That's when the ponds around the estate were connected.
"The hydrosystem, or ring of water, that surrounds the village of Izmailovo turns it into an island," explains Ekaterina Ivanova. The old mansions were torn down, and construction began on the monumental Pokrovsky Cathedral (1671–1679) and a new palace for the tsar.
Where was Peter I born?
Is it true or myth that Peter the Great was born in Izmailovo? Ekaterina Ivanova gives a definitive answer: "Peter was born on the night of May 30, 1672. Construction was still actively underway on the island at that time. Peter's mother, Tsarina Natalia Kirillovna, would not have gone to a construction site to give birth."
However, there are documents confirming that Alexei Mikhailovich Romanov and Natalia Kirillovna brought Peter to Izmailovsky Island in the autumn of 1674 – he was then just over two years old.
Grandfather of the Russian fleet
In 1688, 16-year-old Peter, walking around the island, discovered an unusual vessel in a linen barn.
"And he immediately realized that the vessel was very different from other boats. The future emperor was told it was an English boat. Its sails were designed such that it could sail both with and against the wind. It was the first time Peter had seen such a vessel," says Ekaterina Ivanova.
Peter sailed around the island and along the Yauza River near the village of Preobrazhenskoye in a small boat. Many replicas were made of it. The small boat "Saint Nicholas" is now on display in St. Petersburg at the Peter the Great Central Naval Museum. The vessel is known as the "grandfather" of the Russian fleet.
Seven thousand tiles and the master Polubes
The architectural heart of the estate remains the Cathedral of the Intercession, around which controversy continues, which only emphasizes its uniqueness.
Ekaterina Ivanova clarifies: "According to some scholars, this is still the Russian ornamental style, while others believe it is one of the first examples of Russian Baroque. The window frames and decorative columns are already Baroque elements."
The cathedral's true treasure is the seven thousand tiles covering its walls. They were created by a team of renowned 17th-century artisans led by Ignat Maksimov and Stepan Ivanov (aka Polubes). An unusual nickname for a man who primarily decorated churches with tiles. "There's a theory that the master had a rather peculiar character, which is why his detractors nicknamed him Polubes," the tour guide explains.
One of the pearls of modern Izmailovo has become the exhibition "Open Storage. Stoves and Tiles""We have eight halls and about a thousand items on display. On display are works by Ignat Maksimov and Stepan Polubes—the very same masters who decorated the Pokrovsky Cathedral and the Bridge Tower with tiles," continues Ekaterina Ivanova.
There are unique large-format tile icons and humorous tiles with humorous inscriptions. The exhibition itself is interesting in its presentation: essentially, visitors enter a place usually closed to them—the museum's collections.
Izmailovo Empress Anna Ioannovna and the Bridge Tower – a film heroine
Another architectural monument of that era is the Bridge Tower. Together with the Front and Rear Gates of the Tsar's Court (1682), they form an ensemble whose appearance is familiar to millions of viewers from film stills.
"They are best seen in the Soviet television film 'Mikhail Lomonosov.' Empress Anna Ioannovna passes through our gates, but there they symbolize the gates of Moscow's White City. The real Anna Ioannovna regularly passed through ours," says Ekaterina Ivanova.
While Peter the Great visited Izmailovo only occasionally, his niece, Anna Ioannovna, grew up there. The future empress lived in the second palace, built specifically for Tsar Ivan V's widow, Praskovia Feodorovna, and her daughters. Its image survives only in an engraving by Ivan Zubov from 1729—the palace shared the sad fate of many wooden buildings and was dismantled.
Anna Ioannovna was so attached to Izmailovo that she ruled from there for the first months of her reign. Officials from St. Petersburg rushed to her on work assignments, and in those days, a one-way journey could take up to six days. Of course, the empress was eventually forced to move to St. Petersburg, and there Anna Ioannovna would establish a guards regiment, which she would call the Izmailovsky Regiment.
The island now hosts themed tours and art-themed programs reminiscent of the era of Peter the Great and Anna Ioannovna. Tour guides and even some guests dress in historical costumes. The most popular program is "Learning for the young man, education for the state"The Russian tsars patronized the arts, and this tradition continues on the island. Izmailovo is home to artist Viktor Matorin's studio, "In the World of Art," which offers painting classes and workshops.
Tickets for excursions and other events at the Izmailovo estate can be purchased through the service Mosbilet.
From almshouses to communal apartments
After Anna Ioannovna left the island, it fell into disrepair until 1837, when its ruins attracted the attention of Nicholas I. The Emperor ordered the architect Konstantin Ton to build the Nikolaevskaya Military Almshouse on the island for veterans of the Patriotic War of 1812.
The next phase of history, during the Soviet era, brought a new transformation: in 1926, the almshouse buildings were converted into communal apartments for the Bauman Workers' Town. The communal apartments have long since been resettled, and the estate now houses a space called "Old Moscow Apartment," where lectures are held.
Izmailovo Today: A Paradise Island of Sunsets
From Partizanskaya metro station, you can reach the island via the curved 2nd Baumansky Bridge. It's already a monument to the new architecture—Soviet modernism (1964). In addition to museums, the island is home to several organizations. The tour guide emphasizes: "The island is currently occupied by organizations that are somehow connected with the preservation of cultural heritage."
At the end of her tours, Ekaterina Ivanova likes to recall the legend that Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich may have originally intended the island as a refuge during the end of the world (at that time, people lived in constant anticipation of it). A kind of paradise island that would endure. This legend is most likely just a beautiful fairy tale, but it perfectly captures the image of the serene place for contemplation and learning that Izmailovsky Island truly became, having survived so many turbulent times.
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